Day 07: Wittenberg Exploration

Date	Jan 9, 2024 ( Tuesday )
Total This Camino:	59 miles.
Total 2024 Caminos:	59 miles
Total All Caminos:	2059 miles
Lodging:	Marta's @ $68
Total Lodging:	$ 460
Planes:	$ 1300
Total Planes / Travel Insurance:	$ 1470
Buses / Trains / Taxis:	$ 19
Total Buses / Trains / Taxis:	$ 63
Food:	$ 22
Total Food:	$ 200

Meaningful Moment

Katholische Kirche Sankt Marien

In an interesting contrast with Spanish churches, there is a distinctive absence of iconography. 

In truth, the difference is much more complicated. Many of the Lutheran churches have a Catholic basis and so they have the iconography. That suggests this particular Catholic church is much newer, whatever that means, and it's styling is in the more sparse Protestant style.

The interior styling is so much simpler.

Removal of icons and relics and other items of what would be considered idolatry is very common in Protestant churches, but the distinction between the various sects is not always so crystal clear to me. The Lutheran churches here are much more decorative.

The stained glass windows have a modern artistic style.

I am glad that I came here for mass and communion.

It was 45 minutes where I could just sit and empty the mind of my thoughts about the weather, my body, the hiking changes, etc.

Martin Luther museum

Walking through the Martin Luther museum. Trying to take in a little bit of the persona of the man who stood valiantly against the corruption of the Catholic Church at that time.

But then feeling sad, because as progressive as he was for his time, he was still very anti-semitic.

Although I should feel that we have become so much better as a human race, current events makes me think that we have still so far to go.

Luther was an ordained, monk and priest. His wife, Katharina, was an ex nun. Lol

The House of Martin Luther : actually he lived here under the protectorship of his sponsor. During much of his life, Martin Luther had powerful enemies and needed powerful friends.

In an all too human condition, Martin Luther was not anti-pope. But the pope's stringent over-reactions to Luther's criticisms of church policies led to the irreparable breach of the Reformation.

At the Diet of Worms where Luther was called to explain and to retract his beliefs by Charles V of the Holy Roman Empire, Luther instead according to allegory proclaimed "I can do nothing different, here I am. God help me."

Painting of Martin Luther, at the Diet of Worms Germany, defending his work and beliefs against charges of heresy before the Holy Roman emperor, Charles V.

Random Thought of the Day

How this Camino is taken a radically different turn than I expected.

The polar vortex continues over Germany, making hiking conditions for me, unsustainable.

Things may change in the next few hours, but it's highly likely that early tomorrow morning I will be taking the train to Leipzig and spending the day there to see the sights.

With any luck this polar vortex will break late tomorrow, and I'll be able to continue hiking.

On the other hand, it would seem to be a small, almost unnoticeable thing, but because of the polar vortex, here I sit in Wittenberg, in the Catholic Church of St. Mary, after the mass, just enjoying the moment.

***

After my early afternoon walk around Wittenberg, I headed back to the hotel for a little bit of a pre-packed lunch and then sat in the bathtub with hot water for half an hour. It was so relaxing. And it drains the chill off the bones lol.

Just reviewed the weather conditions for tomorrow. It is improved, but I don't believe the conditions will make for a sustainable hike for me.

Therefore, I have booked a room in Leipzig for tomorrow night. Leipzig is of course the end point of this Camino, but that was the plan when I started this one week ago.

New conditions. So I think what I can do now to adjust is spend the night in Leipzig tomorrow just to see something different of Germany. Basically I am continuing to be a tourist.

By Thursday the weather is supposed to be substantially improved in terms of temperature. Highs about 35 and lows of about 29. Those are conditions where I can hike.

So if that holds true, I will take either the bus or the train from Leipzig to somewhere north and hopefully walk three more days. 

Then Sunday would be for sightseeing either in Leipzig or back in Berlin. 

Monday would definitely be in Berlin. 

And Tuesday is the flight back to the states.

On the Road / Notable memories

Woke up this morning, headed down for breakfast in the hotel dining area, and headed out into the streets for Mass. Still unbearably cold for me.

It's 13 degrees outside. What am I wearing? I've got a t-shirt, polo shirt, a heavy shirt and then my Bills jacket. I've got two pair of pants on and wearing two pair of socks.

It is unbelievably brutal here. It's that polar vortex, and it is expected to hang on for tomorrow.

Walking around

Markt Platz : Given that it's 13° Fahrenheit, I'm not surprised the plaza is empty.

I haven't been in a mall in a long time, but it was warm here 🙂 .

Collegienstrasse : looking towards the Castle Church ( Schlosskirche )

I have such trouble reading this old style German.

 Intersection of Schlossplatz and Schlossstrasse.

Took another late night walk around town. Walked over to the train station so I could practice with buying tickets at the automated machine. It was good practice, did it all in German. 

Then came back to the hotel.

Once again amazed at how dead quiet the streets are. Perhaps it's because it's just after Christmas and New Year's, or because it's so cold out, but I can say that I literally saw almost no one on the entire walk tonight.

Early night beer in the hotel. Up and 'at 'em early to get to Leipzig.