Reflections on the Churches of East Germany (Part III)

Looking Deep into the Soul

(This set of three blog posts was posted chronologically. I suggest, if this is your first viewing that you read Parts I / II first.)

An Hour of Peace and Harmony

Sankt Marien Catholic Church, Lutherstadt-Wittenberg, Saxony-Anhalt

Due to the extreme polar front hanging over Germany, rather than hiking, I am on the train to Lutherstadt-Wittenberg. The temperature is in the upper-teens, not including the wind chill. As far as hiking goes, today is a cheat day.

St Mary’s Catholic church was completed in 1872, and is a typical example of Gothic Revival architecture in Saxony-Anhalt. Post-Reformation, Wittenberg had no separate Catholic community. The increased influx of Catholics in the 19th century, mostly members of the Prussian military, resulted in the establishment of the parish.

The priest at St Mary’s Catholic Church answers his doorbell. I get more German practice, as I very politely explain that I am a pilgrim, and desire a pilgrim stamp for my credential. We chat for over 15 minutes about my reasons for walking the Way of St James. He is incredulous that I am here in January. I explain that it is for the heart, the mind and the soul, and that Winter is my favorite season.






The next day at Mass, I take the hour for contemplation and, as a Yoga instructor would say - Shavasana, to meditate during the service.

As I enter the church, I am struck by the absence of iconography. My experience with Spanish churches is lots of representations of saints throughout the nave and apse. Saint Mary’s is sparse, almost barren.

In truth, the difference is much more complicated. Many of the Lutheran churches have a Catholic basis and so they have the iconography. That suggests this particular Catholic church is much newer, whatever that means, and its styling is in the Post-Reformation, sparse Protestant style.

My Life during the Fall of East Germany

Sankt Nikolai Kirche, Leipzig

Church Bells of St Nicholas

As I was walk the streets of Leipzig, looking for Sankt Nicholas, I turn a corner and suddenly, there she is.

Construction started in Romanesque style in 1165 with twin towers, but in the 16th century, the church was turned into a Gothic hall church. The Baroque-style central tower was added in 1730.

Due to Leipzig’s location at the intersection of two important historic trade routes of the Holy Roman Empire, the Vía Regia and the Vía Imperii, the church was dedicated to St. Nicholas, the medieval patron saint of merchants.

By capacity, it is one of the largest churches in Saxony.

In the 16th century Martin Luther, the father-founder of German Protestantism, read his sermons at St Nicholas.

Johann Sebastian Bach premiered many of his works here from 1723 to 1750 as the music director.

St Nikolai Kirche, Leipzig

The church rose to national fame in 1989 with the Monday Demonstrations when it became the center of a peaceful protest against the communist-led German Democratic Republic, unofficially East Germany.

St Nicholas became the gathering point for East Germans, and Leipzigans in particular, to demonstrate for freedom. A column celebrating the church’s place in history stands outside the church today.

I may have some false memories, but I don't think it matters. In 1989 I was stationed in San Angelo, Texas, as a US Navy instructor for the Russian language. In my job, I prepared new Navy crypto linguists to be Russian translators.

I fixated on CNN news. In real-time, I was watching the protests in Leipzig, the fall of the Berlin Wall and the collapse of the East German government.





Week after week, thousands of Germans gathered outside the church. Holding candles, they stood in silence. In the face of a daunting police presence, they demonstrated for the right to live their lives as they saw fit.

Depite repeated oppression by the police and the government, the protesters never gave up.

Their success would change my life at a very personal level, and the world economically, diplomatically and geo-politically.

The Monday prayers have been held uninterrupted every Monday since 1982. In 2015, the church celebrated its 850th anniversary.







More recently, the church has been struggling to find the funds for interior restorations which have been ongoing since 1968.

It was 25 years ago that the Berlin Wall fell. The protests in Leipzig, Germany played an important prelude.

With a continuing succession of peaceful protests across all of the Warsaw Pact for the most part, came the end of the Soviet Union and the Cold War.

Throughout my military career I had the experiences and adventures as a radio maintenance/assistant forward air controller, as an aircraft ground crewman and finally 14 years as a U.S. Navy Russian linguist.

With the collapse of the Soviet Union, my 22-year career in the military, in the Cold war, no longer had meaning or purpose.

Our side won the Cold War. We entered a brave new world, where my part in it was no longer existentially important.

It’s 5:00 p.m. and I am sitting in St. Nicholas for my first Lutheran service and choral organ music. It is so relaxing and so decompressing that I almost fall asleep during the music.





The generational torch was passed. Jimmy Carter and Ronald Reagan and George Bush Sr gave way to Bill Clinton and Al Gore and George W Bush and Barack Obama.

Today in Leipzig … inside Saint Nicholas, at the age of 70, I feel old … for the first time in my life.

Life, Love and Relationships

Walking down Schlossstrasse, Lutherstadt-Wittenberg, Saxony-Anhalt

Schlosskirche is one of my “must go-to” sights. It is the church where Martin Luther, perhaps allegorically, posted his 95 Theses against the corruption of the Catholic Church. That is a lot of history to unpack.

I see the church in the distance but it appears so much more like a cathedral. I have done my pre-reading. It is, in fact, a church. But what a sight as I walk down Schlossstrasse and see the church steeple looming over the buildings.

It is called Schlosskirche (Castle Church) to distinguish it from Stadtkirche (City Church) where I attended Catholic Mass, and received my pilgrim’s stamp in my credential. Actually, I had some trouble locating Schlosskirche because of my initial confusion between the two.

Schlosskirche

On this site in 1340 a chapel, subordinated to the Holy See in Rome, was first erected to honor “All Saints”. At the turn of the 16th century, a new church to honor “All Saints” was built in the Gothic style.

At the same time, the church was incorporated into the university as the chapel, turning it into an important academic and intellectual center.

Today, All Saints' Church serves not only as a place of worship, but it also houses the town's historical archives, is home to a Museum, and a youth hostel.

I try to stay at the church youth hostel, but it is closed due to inventory. I am sad. This is on the bucket list.

95 Theses

The main portal was often used by the university staff to pin up messages and notices; it is generally believed that on 31 October 1517, the eve of All Saints' Day, Martin Luther posted his Ninety-five Theses on the doors of All Saints' Church.

This act, meant to promote a dispute on the sale of indulgences, is commonly viewed as a catalyst for the Protestant Reformation.

Whether the event actually took place or not, Luther sent his objections in a letter to the Archbishop on the same day.





I am trying to handle assorted issues in my life, not all that successfully, that have more to do with aging gracefully than any existential problem.

I took a class from Lifespan about personal skills while caring for an elderly parent.

One of the things I learned in the class was to establish positive thought patterns. For example, turn misfortune into opportunity.

By taking the train to Wittenberg, I skip two stages of hiking due to the intense cold weather and a minor infection. I don’t feel guilty; I have the opportunity to explore more of Lutherstadt Wittenberg



Schlosskirche

During the Seven Years' War the Wittenberg fortress was occupied by the Prussian Army and shelled by Imperial forces. The Castle Church was destroyed by a fire resulting from the bombardment. All Saints' was soon rebuilt, albeit without many priceless works of art that were lost forever.

I enter through the doors at the back of the nave, stand there and look towards the apse with its rounded form. To my mind it dwarfs the sanctuary and altar with the stained glass windows half the height of the wall.

The natural light, prisming through the stained glass, shines down on the colonnades and pews. The reds, blues, greens and golds flicker on my face as I approach the choir and sanctuary.

I find a candle stand, and light two candles in reflection on things that I've been thinking about.

Schlosskirche

Am I recalling past adventures to cover up past regrets?

Am I bringing back memories of fun times to push away fears of the future?

I only know that I am simultaneously alone, and not alone. It is very odd.

One man started a revolution here in this church. Today, I question nearly everything from my politics to my religion to my purpose. It is a momentary thing. My grandkids, son and daughter-in-law are on the other side of the Atlantic; my partner is there; my family is there.

When this hike comes to an end, I have a place to return to.